CaminoKid's Kore3 Z06 Big Brake Install & ABS Delete

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From my original post on ImpalaSSforum: http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=350042

Day 1: Parts Arrive & Tear Down  Lately with work and life, I’ve not had a chance to do too much to my Caprice SS. I know she’s feeling neglected. So, I’ve decided it’s time for a Big Brake Upgrade. 

Here's what all show up from Kore3.  Visit www.Kore3.com for more info.

Since my 20 inch wheel upgrade, my little 11 inch rotors appear to have shrunk even more. Here she is prior to going under the knife.

The large wheels and small rotors have been driving me crazy and I’ve finally decided to do something about. I’ve talked with Tobin @ Kore 3 (call him, very knowledgeable guy!) and decided to go with their 14 inch rotors and Corvette Z06 Dual Piston caliper kit up front and the 13 inch rotor, single piston kit in the rear.

I would have loved the 6 piston setup, but my choice of wheels limited my selection. Yes, the 6 piston Willwood kit would have fit, but I wasn’t prepared to spend $3000+ for their complete front and rear setup. I don’t intend to race this car, she's 90% show.

Not only am I planning on the brake upgrade, while I have the spindles off, I will be installing Speed Tech upper and lower control arms and removing my ABS Pump Module. When I built the car, way back when, I removed all of the ABS electronics from the car due to it not working. Yes, everything! My plan is to run the hydraulic lines as if the car was never installed with ABS.

I should have enough time to finish this by October (Life is kind of crazy here) as I plan on going to http://www.cruisinthecoast.com/ again this year. So, follow along and I’ll post updates and images as progress is made.

This weekend’s goal is to get everything off the car and start modifying the spindles to fit the brackets. Let the fun begin!

This evening I was able to get the car up in the air and wheels off.

I pulled the rear calipers and rotors and took a couple pictures before and after of the rear and then a few side by side comparisons. There's just a little difference between the my original rotors and the new Corvette Rotors. Now for the fun of actually installing everything.

Rear rotor before & after comparisons:

Day 2: Continued Tear Down  Out of curiousity, I grabbed a caliper and took a couple measurements. The front original rotors are 1.040” thick, (I only have about 5k miles on them), the new C5/C6 355 rotors are 1.277”, that's 0.23" (almost a quarter inch) thicker.

The rear original rotors are 0.767” and the new rears are 1.046". There is an even bigger difference with 0.279 (over a quarter inch) difference. Interesting that the rear C5/C6 rotors are bigger than the original front rotors. 

I was able to make some progress this weekend. The complete front suspension is off the car. First came off the original 9C1 calipers, then the AC Delco rotors and spindles as one assembly. I then removed the upper and lower control arms. I’ve not yet cracked open the brakes as I didn’t want to leave the system open all week. I’m pretty much a weekend warrior.

Once the front suspension was removed I changed gears. I was too excited and wanted to get some ASSEMBLY done. So, instead of disassembling the front and rear, I started the assembly of the front hubs and spindles. I’ve had another set of spindles in storage just waiting for this mod. I dug them out and disassembled them.

Before cleaning the spindles up, I read the Kore3 directions like a dozen times... Per the directions, I had to remove the original caliper mounts and additional material.

I  break out my plasma cutter and proceeded to torch the caliper brackets and trim the extra edge off the spindles. I then go to town with my grinder cleaning up the edges I’ve torched off. Then out comes the drill. Next, I drill out the two backing plate bolt holes for the new caliper brackets and tapped them to the new ½ inch bolt, (which was a pain). While I had the grinder out, I dressed up all the other sharp edges around the spindle. Once the edges were smoothed, I took the spindles to the parts washer to remove years’ worth of nasty grease, rinse and dry. Then into the sand blasting cabinet and removed all the rust. Rinse, dry and paint and wait for paint to dry... After the paint dried, I installed the Kore3 caliper brackets.

  Final assembly of the spindles.

 

I'm hoping I will be able to pick up my new control arms this week. Some assembly may be required... Next weekend will begin the rear brake teardown. I really hate the smell of rear end grease.

 

Day 3: Rear Brake Install  Yesterday, I spent the better part of the day assembling the rear brakes. I removed the axles and stripped the old disc brakes off. Cleaned up the little bit rust and painted the housing ends. 

Here’s the new Kore3 rear kit (didn’t take a picture of the e-brake actuator and lining)

I started assembly of the backing plate and it became apparent that 4 bolts were missing. Needless to say, I was kind of disappointed. More due to the fact that I had to stop what I was doing and run to the hardware store. The bolts were for the E-Brake actuator, so it’s not like I could put that off until later. Luckily the hardware store is local and 30 minutes later I’m back to assembling the rear brakes.

After final assembly, it’s almost to pretty to install… Here are a couple pictures of the final assembly and it installed on the axle.
 

Now that the rear backing plate and e-brake are installed, it’s time to install the rotor, caliper and pads. This is when I notice the caliper bracket is painted black and the front caliper bracket is silver. Dang it… Remember my car is 90% car show. So, attention to detail is a MUST! I cannot have miss matched caliper brackets. The front looks nice silver, so I decide to paint the rear silver too. I crank up the sand blaster and remove the old paint, wash off the residue, dry and paint. Sorry, no pictures, only the finished product. I also cannot stand the plane jane gunmetal gray rotors and paint the hats gloss black.

Now back to the front. This is going to be a little more involved I think. After my rear axle assembly, I took a dinner break and went out with my buddy and picked up the Speed Tech control arms and spare set of brake lines. We both have been discussing removal of the ABS motor for some time and had a set of lines we removed from a scrap Roadmaster.  I am so excited to get these on the car.

But, I think before I put these on the car, the extra room of having them off the car may be a benefit. 

 

Day 4:  ABS Delete   I managed to remove the ABS motor, master cylinder, and the lines with the exception of the rear and right front line (runs under the engine on the cross member). I also removed the front calipers and brake line brackets. I have since cleaned and painted those brackets.

Before picture; (control arms are still off). I figured having them out of the way would be a good idea. Glad I left them off, I needed every inch to snake the lines out.

Here’s a picture of everything removed. Now I need to clean and paint the frame. I’m not planning on putting the rubber dust cover/shields back on, this way the new control arms more exposed.

 

I'm hoping tomorrow I can run into San Antonio to pick up the necessary fittings.

 

I should have guessed when I put the 13mm tubing wrench on the fittings to remove them from the ABS motor that the lines were metric.

The factory line is 4.75mm OD tubing is 0.187". 3/16" OD tubing is 0.1875". the difference is 0.0005".

When I stopped by San Antonio Brake & Clutch, the guy instantly new I had metric lines and started explaining how he didn't have metric fittings and that I could get away with using standard fittings as long as I wasn't tying into any OEM parts. OK, good. So when I get home, I grab a piece of scrap line and my standard (ISO) double flaring tool and the die doesn't fit inside the metric line and the clamp just doesn't quick hold the line tight enough and the next size down is too small. OK this sucks! But wait... This means new tool...


But after calling several local discount tool chains, NO ONE carries a metric version of the double flaring tool. D@*# IT! I have a couple calls out to a few local friends and tool vendors. I really cannot afford to waste a weekend waiting for the tool to show up from an online tool store. And although I could put the car suspension back together, having the extra space might be nice if I end up having to remove the line from under the engine. And having the control arms off, at least on the driver’s side has provided extra room to maneuver.

While doing my online searches though, I saw this and started drooling. http://www.mastercool.com/pages/flaring_tools.html But, that's a little outta my price range.

In fact, so is this one, but... It’s a little less pricey and I do flares tubing every once and a while… Hmmmm… http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...RING-TOOL-KIT/

Day 5: ABS = Deleted  I had another productive day. I was a little worried that I wouldn’t have made any progress this weekend since I wasn’t having much luck tracking down a “good” double flaring tool.

Finally, I was able to meet up with a Matco Tools Dealer and purchased a “professional” tube flaring kit from him. I was a little disappointed as he didn’t have the Master Kit I had my hopes on purchasing. But, he did have the standard kit, which looked to be of better construction then my discount POS. First thing I did when I got home was to test it on a piece of scrap metric tubing. What a difference using a professional grade tool, versus a discount version. It worked great; I’m definitely keeping this tool handy!

After practicing several times, I overcome my phobia of cutting the original brake lines. I decided to just cut some of the excess lines away (that went to the ABS Module), leaving a little excess to figure out where the final cut would be. The rear line was an obvious quick and easy decision. No thinking necessary there. The rear line coming up from the frame almost matched perfectly to the line coming down from the proportioning valve. It didn’t take much tweaking to fit the rear line. I installed the high compression fitting and called it done!

Rear brake line - compression fitting

The front on the other hand required a little more thinking. Eventually, the idea came and I was able to start to see how I could route the lines. I snapped a picture of my initial plans on installing the T for the front brakes.  T-Fitting Installed


Initial brake line layout  Now that I have a plan, it’s time to start cutting. I started with the driver’s side front brake line, marked the spot to cut, cut it, flared the line and installed the T. This gave me the location to mark the master cylinder and passenger lines. From there I marked the line from the master cylinder. Again, cut, flare and installed. This one took a little more tweaking then the rear line, partially due to the rear line being in the way.

I decided to remove the passenger side brake line (the one that runs under the engine on the sub frame). This way I can clean it and bend it 180 degrees the other direction (point to the rear instead of toward the front). I was surprised that I was able to remove the passenger side brake line. After bending the line 180, I reinstalled the line, so I could mark the correct spot to cut the line. Mark, remove line, cut, flare and install. I had to do some minor tweaking again to line up everything. 

 

I'm not 100% happy with leaving the brake lines in raw steel. She's mainly a show car, but I do drive her and I've been stuck in the rain a few time. Also, I would like to make the brass T blend in. I’m thinking I might pull everything back out and paint it a darker gray metallic or charcoal metallic. I don’t want it to disappear, but, I also don’t know that I want it bright silver… Going to have to think on this one...

 

At that point it was time to start back on the suspension. A friend of mine (who’s also running the Speed Tech control arms) pointed out a small concern of bolting down the shock absorbers and that you cannot successfully use the original clips as the Speed Tech spring pockets are made from ¼ in plate steel. That was a simple enough fix. Weld some nuts inside the pockets.

I also took this opportunity to cut about a 1/3 of a coil off the front springs. I just want to tuck those front wheels just a bit.

 

 

Day 6: Painted Brake Lines  Unfortunately, today was not very productive, too many chores to complete around the house. I did manage to clear up some space in the garage by storing away the 9C1 parts off the Caprice. I have future plans for them, those powder coated control arms, spindles, 9C1 calipers and AC Delco drilled and slotted rotors will look good on my Impala SS.

After some thought, I decided to paint my brake lines. I removed all the lines and took some steel wool to remove what was left of the factory protectant. They polish up nice. At this point I was starting to doubt myself...

It took me awhile to decide on which shade I wanted to go with. I decided on a charcoal metallic. What I like about painting everything is that the T-fitting blends in, instead of sticking out.  I cannot wait to get the lines back in, just ran out of time and energy after finishing up the yard...  I hate it when work gets in the way.
Here's the part numbers for the fittings I just for the front brakes:  part numbers off the packages and their part description (which makes no since to me,) for the 3/16 line fittings and brass T. They're Gates products and should be available from many sources.
3 x Gates Steel Adapter (line fitting) - p/n 60596-0303, part description 3T-3MIXN-S / 105x3
1 X Gates Brass T - G60695-0303, part description 3FI-3FI-3FI / 702x3

 

Day 7: Control Arms Installed   I had big plans for this weekend. I was actually thinking I might be able to put the car back on all 4. Well, that wish came to a sudden stop a little after lunch. I did manage to get the brake lines installed along with the control arms.

I started right away this morning by installing my newly painted brake lines. I really like the way they turned out. Not over the top, but they don’t blend in either.

Once the lines were all in and tight, I reinstalled the master cylinder and moved to installing the control arms. Uppers went on with no problem and on to the lowers.


Ran into the typical problem, the lower arms did not want to squeeze into their mounts, so I had to make a new tool. My new bore spreading tool… Once the mounts were spread out enough the control arms went right in.  I installed the spring and went to drop the spindle on and this was when things came to a sudden halt.

Continue to Part 2 

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